The House of Repossi was founded in 1920 in Turin, Italy and has since then been run by three generations. The creative Repossi family has a legacy of talented artists and designers, a heritage that has been extended from father to son, and later from father to daughter.
Today Repossi is headed by third-generation Gaia Repossi who functions as Creative Director. The label is famed for its ornate, diamond-studded jewellery and many of the pieces are still created in the same workshops her great-grandfather used almost 90 years ago.
Gaia grew up surrounded by her father’s passion for artistic jewellery and so she developed a love for drawing. She studied painting at the Beaux Arts of Paris and obtained a master’s degree in archeology. Alongside her studies, Gaia gradually entered the family run business and in 2007, only at the age of 21 years, she was appointed Creative and Artistic Director of Repossi.
The Parisian jeweler is famed for her sleek, minimal designs and this season she has put a fresh spin on the Parisian House’s signature sculptural jewellery in a special capsule for Net-a-Porter.
“My goal was to create a desire for jewellery again with a contemporary vision and awareness of today’s needs and reality,” designer Gaia Repossi told Net-a-Porter. Part of the ‘Berbère’ collection, this stackable ring encircles the finger with bands of 18-karat rose gold, two of which are punctuated with 0.82-carats of light-catching diamonds.
The technical Berbère 18-karat rose gold diamond ring –
online exclusive at Net-a-Porter.
About the design process Gaia explained: “I sketch from an idea, a reference or inspiration straight on a silhouette a bit like a couturier.” Inspired by the striped tattoos of the Tuareg nomads, the polished 18-karat rose gold ‘Berbère’ ring gives the illusion of multiple bands stacked together – an effect that’s incredibly technical to produce.
In 2010 Gaia launched the Berbère Collection in 2010 and it became a groundbreaking hit for the House of Repossi, establishing it as an influential presence within the fashion world and the high jewellery industry.
Repossi’s Spring ’17 collection has a strong and industrial feel of construction materials. Gaia elaborates that she was inspired by “opulence and new ideas of wearability on the body.” Designed to give the illusion of a double piercing, this single 18-karat black gold-washed ‘Elliptiques’ earring is embellished with 0.86-carats of sparkling pavé diamonds.
Elliptiques 18-karat black gold-washed diamond earring by Repossi.
Next month Cartier launches The Juste Un Clou Torque that adds a well-rounded touch to The Just Un Clou collection. The necklace comes in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold or paved with diamonds along with an oversized bracelet.
The Juste Un Clou bracelet was created by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier New York in the 1970s. Taking a humble piece of hardware and an ordinary object like the nail and giving it re-purpose as a wearable piece of jewellery was at that time considered an outrageous appropriation, which echoed the anti-conformist sentiment of the era.
Founded in Paris, France in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, Cartier is well known for its jewellery and wrist watches. Today the French luxury goods company has 286 Cartier boutiques worldwide that showcase the brand’s high-end jewellery and watches. Last year the conglomerate opened new boutiques in Australia, China, Thailand and Turkey, but The company maintains its headquarters in Paris.
Cartier looks beyond the fleeting fashions of the day, forging a style out of its extraordinary history, travels and encounters with exceptional personalities. The label has a long history of selling jewellery to European royalty. The Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton has for instance been seen wearing the Cartier Ballon Bleu timepiece among others.
Through times no other piece of jewellery has stayed in fashion like the Hoop earrings. They have been reinvented time and time again, considered to be as much a wardrobe staple as denim or the blazer. Each year jewellery designers around the world reinterpret the transformative accessory sometimes into a supersized or sculptural pair, or worn, surprisingly well, only in one ear. From modernist touches to thick, shiny hoops, or hooked geometric embellishments the circular accessory finds new purpose over and over again.
And what’s even better is that the classic circle silhouette can be worn by everyone no matter type. The women of hip-hop had their door knockers; the beatnik babes wore Lucite discs, and the ladies of the minimalist movement preferred pin-thin silver eclipsing their lobes. However, there are certain muses who have greatly influenced the way we want to wear our own versions of those old-school earrings today.
A true hoop muse must be Sade with her understated simplicity. She pairs bold, clean earrings with minimal turtlenecks and button-downs, which exemplify the AGMES look.
Audrey Hepburn’s chic, paired-down style was impeccable and she always exuded a sense of elegance and timelessness. Do you remember the hoops she wore in Sabrina?
During times a lot of female musicians have artfully done the hoop earring, like Alicia Keys, and Janet Jackson. Especially, Lauryn Hill owned the look with the same self-possession that personifies her sound and her style.
One of the more current style icons is Jennifer Aniston. She is often effortlessly stylish and has such a classic look. Aniston can pair jeans and a tee, a little black dress, or a chic suit with a great pair of hoops and just look chic!
Megastar and Icon of today Rihanna takes the hoop-game to a whole new level with this super-super-sized variant.
This season we saw a new collaboration emerge between Designer Anne Sofie Madsen and jewellery designer Vibe Harsløf as they joined forces collaborating for Sofie’s AW17 collection.
The idea occurred a long time ago, but it was not until Vibe and Sofie found each other sipping drinks at the same bar during Copenhagen Fashion Week that the joint venture took actual shape. From that point, it all went really fast. The two designers only had a couple of weeks to design and craft the pieces until they were to be presented on the runway in Paris.
Vibe describes the process as insanely intense, but luckily she and Sofie had similar views of the direction they wanted the collection to take, which made it very easy and fun at the same time. “Even though we had to work fast and it was a lot of work i really enjoyed it, it felt Like a fun break in my daily routine” Vibe explains to The Jewellery Room.
The collaboration collection reflects the juxtaposition seen in Madsen’s clothes. It incorporates the raw and unfinished versus the refined and delicate; nature versus a mechanical aesthetic is seen through the combination of natural stones and wood with polished silver and Swarovski stones. With a reference point in the Talisman and its many significations –from tribal religions to tokens from computer games, they have created a series of jewellery for protection in 2017.
Anne Sofie Madsen graduated from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and trained under John Galliano in Paris, before moving to London to work for Alexander McQueen as a Junior Designer. In 2012 she started her own label and presented her first collection at London Fashion Week. She won Danish Fashion Award and GenArt’s Fresh Faces in New York in 2012 and Vogue Talents the same year. In 2013 she won the prestigious DANSK Design Talent prize and in 2015 DHL Exported in Tokyo. In 2014, the brand presented its first fashion show at Paris Ready-to-Wear Fashion Week and has been showing there since. For the seasons of 2017 the brand is part of the Swarovski collective.
Jewellery designer Vibe Harsløf`s design philosophy is simple; her intent is to create contemporary and original jewellery and accessories of lasting quality. The look is clean and pure, with all excess parts removed during the design process, leaving pieces that rather accentuate the body than embellish it. In every collection, she challenges and pushes the boundaries of how and where a piece of jewellery should be worn, but without compromising the wearability. With more than 15 years of experience as a jewellery designer, she has collaborated with among other Hien Le, Kinraden, Wood Wood and Bijules. Her pieces are sold at Colette, 10 Corso Como and United Arrows to name just a few.
It’s fantastic to see Jewellery having a platform during a fashion week as it is a crucial part of the fashion world.
Editors were buzzing about The Jewellery Room as if it was one of the most soughtafter shows in town. And it was
Beautifully styled and was such an easy and accessible way to experience many brands gathered under one roof.